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Hong Kong Pickled Papaya, Shallots, and Cucumber

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In one of my zillion expeditions to a certain gigantic Chinese grocery store, I came across a jar of this pickle. It looked as if the pale, limp vegetables inside had been processed to the edge of oblivion. It tasted like it looked—mushy and disintegrating— unsurprising, as it must have come on the slow boat from the Mee Chun Canning Company in Hong Kong. Still, it made me think of green papaya in a whole new way: rather than shredding it and tossing it Thai-style with copious fish sauce and lime, I cubed it and poached it until it became tender but toothsome, kind of like squash. The potent ginger, along with the shallot’s bite and the cucumber’s coolness, make it a pickle sensation.

Makes about 6½ cups

TIME: 3 DAYS

1 pound green papaya (about ½ of a medium fruit)

8 ounces shallots

1 (10-ounce) salad cucumber

5 thin slices peeled fresh ginger

1½ cups distilled white vinegar

1½ cups water

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

6 tablespoons sugar

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil.

Meanwhile, peel the papaya and discard its seeds. Chop into 1- inch cubes and reserve; you should have about 3 cups. Trim and peel the shallots and set aside. Peel and trim the cucumber, then cut it in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Chop the cucumber into 1-inch cubes as well and reserve; you should have about 1¾ cups. Once the water is boiling, add the papaya and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes more, until the papaya is just tender. Drain and rinse the vegetables under cool water to stop the cooking. Combine with the raw cucumbers and transfer to a 2-quart canning jar or other container (or some combination of smaller jars and containers). Return the pot to the stove and add the ginger, vinegar, water, salt, and sugar. Cover, bring it to a boil over high heat, and let bubble for 2 minutes. Pour the brine over the vegetables until they are fully covered in liquid and put the lids on the containers.

Let the pickle sit on the countertop for 24 hours before moving to the refrigerator. Let it sit for 3 days for the best flavor. This pickle will last at least a month.

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