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Different Styles Between the North and the South

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During the Yuan dynasty, due to the hierarchical and ethnical differences between the north and south, remarkable differences existed in terms of production and application of silk in China. The Mongolian nobles in the north preferred gilded lampas with a more sturdy style, while in regions to the south of the Huai River where most residents were of the Han nationality, and the graceful traditions of the Song dynasty were still kept.

The Nasich lampas mentioned above were found in almost every Yuan tomb in thenorth, usually with patterns of confronted birds and beasts typical of Western Region, such as lions, peculiar two-head birds and griffins, an imaginary beast in the Greek myth with head and wings of an eagle and body of a lion. Sometimes patterns of Persian or Arabian style were also weaved in.

Compared to those brilliant lampas popular in the north, textiles produced in the south were more graceful, specially marked by the appearance of satin. Different from patterns popular in the north, flowers were the main motif, such as satin withpeony scrolls and satin with pomegranate scrolls unearthed in Jiangsu province in southern China. Due to its special luster, satin was to enjoy great popularity in generations to come.

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